The Martes Chronicles: I’d Gladly Brisket All

The Aftermath.

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It’s the best time of the year.
Football is on, the leaves are changing and hoodie-weather is in full swing. Work and the constant tumult of the High Holy Days make my off-time all the more special. This is one of the reasons I prefer this time of year for barbecuing; even more so than in the summer.

Granted, nothing says summer like firing up the grill, throwing a few burgers and hot dogs on the flames and drinking yourself into oblivion. The emphasis with summer barbecuing is typically on the social aspect, with the food you grill being simple enough for a drunk person to handle. With the onset of autumn, the chillier weather combined with the need to sustain oneself through 4 to 16 hours of football watching over the course weekend create a perfect storm for big-project grilling scenarios.

The NFL Kickoff earlier this month happened to be a matchup between the New York Football Giants of East Rutherford, New Jersey and the Dallas Cowboys (SPOILER ALERT! It was probably the best game Dallas will have all year). Because I am an unapolgetic slurper of all things Texas (that don’t come from Houston) and a lifelong Cowboys fan I hosted a party for the viewing of said game.

For this party I decided to smoke some meat. Texas style.

Central Texas barbecue is very specific regional style notable for its Bohemian origins, spartan side dishes and an aversion to spoiling good meat with cloying sauces. Throughout Texas, beef is king, but in Central Texas the most popular cuts are shoulder (or Clod) and that cut beloved to Jews and Texans alike- the brisket.

This required a great deal of preparation, planning and a a fair amount of good luck. I used a Webber charcoal grill that’s older than I am and a few handfuls of charcoal briquettes. The only temperature gauge I had was a meat thermometer that topped at 190°, so most of the cooking I had to do between 225° and 250° involved me guessing based on time spent in front of ovens.

The result was the juciest, best tasting meat I’ve ever cooked. The 20 odd people who watched the game with me agreed. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

First of all I had a great recipe to work with. It’s from my dog-eared copy of Saveur’s Texas issue. I’d already read that recipe a few times before I attempted it. I’d cooked plenty of brisket in the meantime, mostly oven-braised for various Jewish holidays, but never attempted smoking anything more time-consuming than a three-hour chicken.

My Passover Brisket.

With this attempt I re-read that recipe three or four times in the week leading up to the party and constantly referred back to it during the process. Part of that was due to the steady stream of alcohol I began imbibing the morning of the party when I was up early stoking the grill; tailgating the television. The recipe seems simple with its nine steps, but it’s essentially a 20 hour process that requires a lot more guesswork and improvisation then is immediately apparent. Getting really familiar on paper with what you’re doing is recommended.

I bought two 3.25 lb briskets because I expected to feed a lot of people. It wasn’t cheap, but this is NFL Kickoff. And a Cowboys game. I mean… c’mon. Anyway, the night before the party I mixed up a dry rub of certain proportions and ingredients which I am not interested in sharing with you. I will tell you what kinds of things I put in it, and trust you’ll have the good judgement to formulate your own blend.
In no particular order:

  • Brown or Raw Sugar
  • Salt (Kosher or Seasoned)
  • Dry Mustard Powder
  • Paprika (Sweet, Smoked, Hot)
  • Black Pepper
  • Ground Chile Peppers (Cayenne, Pequin, Chipotle) 
My only further reccomendation with a rub is not to go too heavy on the salt, sugar or chiles as they could overpower or toughen the meat. And don’t use Chili Powder, which usually contains oregano and cumin and will drastically change the flavor profile of your meat.

After rinsing the meat under cold water and patting it dry with paper towells; I rubbed the meat down with a solid coat of dry rub and left them covered in the fridge all night.
While the fat-soluable chile powders soaked into the meat I poured three quarters of a bottle of Everclear into a large mason jar and threw eight black tea bags into the jar. After an hour I strained the dark-brown concentrate back into the original Everclear bottle.

Concentrate.

The next day mixed 1 part Black Tea Everclear with 4 parts good Lemonade over lots of ice. It was a taste sensation. I should know; I drank four of them that day.

So, 10 in the morning the day of the party I start a football-size pile of charcoal in one corner of my grill. After about an hour (once the coals had burned down to gray) I topped them with two cups of soaked mesquite chips and let them burn down until they produced white smoke.

I placed a pan of water next to them and set the briskets over the water and as far away from the heat as possible, covering with both vents oven and the top vent over the meat.

At the start.

I pretty much followed the Saveur recipe as it’s written for the rest of the afternoon, substituting my own judgement for the temps in the grill and the meat. I recommend you get a good digital thermometer for your first attempt at any barbecuing. You might not be as lucky as I was and end up with, at best, something resembling jerky.

Hour 4.

In order to pad people’s stomachs I made a bunch of sides. A homemade barbecue sauce to be added only as a condiment for cooked meat. In the Central Texas style, it was a vinegar and ketchup-based sauce with Dr. Pepper for a touch of sweetness. I made a pot of vegetarian pinto beans disguised as chili. I braised and pulled apart a bunch of chicken thighs in a sauce made mostly of reconstituted, pureed chipotle chiles, garlic and chicken stock.

For the brisket I put out the classic sides of Bimbo white bread and saltine crackers (I think I was too drunk to open the sweet pickle jar at this point). Close to the end of the first quarter; I pulled the foil-wrapped briskets off the cold grill they had been resting on for the last hour.

When I took my first slice (AGAINST THE GRAIN!) I had a moment of panic, as it appeared a little dry to me. As I continued slicing away, the grayish end closest to the heat gave way to perfect, pink-ringed slices of juicy smoked meat.

This was the only picture taken before the feeding frenzy.

It was unbelievable. People devoured it. I threw a few choice (read: gristly and fatty) pieces in a white bread taco and switched to beer for the remainder of the game. I ended up not really getting to pig out on it until I finished the leftovers the following day; this time with all the proper accouterments.

I also needed to whip up some mashed potatoes for all that jus.

I can’t describe how good it was. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted barbecue brisket this good outside of Texas, and yet I did it with minimal experience and tools and a head full of pure grain alchohol. You could do it too. Heck, you don’t even have to be watching a Cowboys game.

Take it through the fire; for a chance to brisket all. You’ll be happy you did.

 

Thursday Morning Quarterback: Episodes Four & Five

Thursday Morning Quarterback is a weekly attempt to humorously recap each new episode of Top Chef Texas on the Bravo Network (as if you didn’t know).
Beware; there are spoilers below!

Editors Note: Yeah yeah yeah. Computer and DVR problems rule my life. Get over it.
Here we go:

EPISODE FOUR:

  • Gross- the competition is sponsored by “Healthy Choice”. I miss Glad Bags already.
  • Chiles, Chiles, Chiles- nothing makes me happier.
  • The Ghost Chile is NOT the hottest chile in the world. That would be the Guatemalan Insanity Pepper; grown in the jungle by inmates of an insane asylum.
  • Paul Qui goes for the ghost pepper. Go big or go home.
    (I typed that before he said it. Spooky)
  • I swear up and down that Richie was not born a male (Notthatthere’sanythingwrongwiththat); Mrs. Headchef is still on the fence about it. What do you think?
  • Who makes a fucking habanero popper? This ain’t TGIFridays. (Then she finishes in the top three, of course)
  • Woooooo! I’m telling you that Paul is not to be messed with.
  • ALL NIGHT TO COOK? Spoiled bastards.
  • Cubed chuck; onions; tomatoes; chili powder; a little corn masa; salt. Anything more and YOU INSULT THE GREAT STATE OF TEXAS!
  • Bwaaa! TOM!
  • I can’t believe they’re using brisket in their chili. What a waste of a luxurious cut of meat, especially considering that the long cooking time will cause the meat to disintegrate. I predict angry cowboys.
  • Peaches? PEACHES? This ain’t Fredricksburg.
  • One hour is not a lot of time to reheat chili without scorching it. I deal with that once a week at my restaurant job and it’s no party.
  • Kind of surprised that no team attempted a chili verde. Huh.
  • Huh. The brisket chili is stringy. Shocking.
  • BEANS HAVE NO BUSINESS IN CHILI! Ok- maybe in whatever yankee carpetbagger state you come from, but certainly not in Tix-ass.
  • “There’s no crying in cooking”-Nyesha. Yeah, not in front of any other chefs anyway.
  • Padma on a horse.
  • Ooh- double elimination challenge with the leftover chili. I suggest a walking taco.
  • Sad to see Richie go home. He had a very ambitious style, and I honestly thought he was a contender.

ON TO EPISODE FIVE:

  • 14 chefs remain. WHO YA GOT?
  • Moving on to Dallas. HOME OF THE COWBOYS! THE MAVERICKS! THE RANGERS! J.R. EWING! YEEEEEHAW!
  • “Isn’t Dolly Parton from Dallas?”- Beverly. ARE YOU KIDDING ME? Every third Dolly song mentions she’s from the Smokey Mountains of Tennessee. You deserve to be eliminated on that dumb comment alone, you freaking crybaby.
  • Wow. Chris used to be a little on the husky side.
  • Road block. I feel like there are better uses for TX state troopers, namely, targeting out of state drivers with a ruthless efficiency.
  • You can use anything you find in the field? Does that include cow chips and mesquite?
  • You might as well run backwards through that cornfield, as that’s feedcorn unfit for human consumption, and you ain’t got time to nixtamalize it.
  • Oh wow, the corn was too dry. The corn from those drying stalks of feedcorn. Shocking.
  • Lindsey’s little soup and sandwich was cute. Glad she won the challenge. What the hell is a Vienna sausage, though?
  • STFU, Dakota. Nobody likes you.
  • That’s some hotel room. Some neighborhood. Some house. Nobody does classless opulence like Dallas.
  • No peppers or cilantro. Welcome to Dallas; a city most Texans find to be as Northeastern as Boston.
  • Dude in the pink shirt (gummy bear lover) went to his stylist and asked for the “Mark Cuban”.
  • During a bump the editors threw in a shot of Dealey Plaza. Classy. Strange that they didn’t highlight Ford’s Theater during Top Chef DC.
  • Wow, those are some ugly kitchens.
  • I think they’re singling out Beverly just to make her cry now.
  • Have I mentioned what a fierce competitor Paul is? I’m developing a serious mancrush.
  • “If you wanted it to look like a cigar, clearly it was a pretty poorly rolled one. Obviously little Dominican children did not make them”- Mrs Headchef
  • Oh wow, seared diver scallops. Nobody EVER makes those.
  • Dakota’s plate looks like a pile of monkey poop.
  • Nothing like an after-dinner margarita. Or ten.
  • PAUL DOMINATES AGAIN! AUSTIN REPRESENT!
  • Chuy really dropped the ball on this one. Sad, because I like a lot of his dishes.
  • Chris certainly let out his inner fat kid. Too bad that fat kid went to Old Country Buffet.
  • I really can’t believe that Chuy’s dish was worse than Chris’ dessert or the lame cigar. That’s a real shocker.

Okay, see you on time this Thursday morning. From the Southfork Ranch? AWESOME.

Thursday Morning Quarterback: Episode One

Thursday Morning Quarterback is a weekly attempt to humorously recap each new episode of Top Chef Texas on the Bravo Network (as if you didn’t know).
Beware; there are spoilers below!

With the Longhorns and Cowboy seasons busted, the Rangers loosing the World Series and the Mavs locked out; this will be the closest thing to Texas sports I’ll have for awhile until the UT basketball team gets jobbed by the refs mid-march. Here are my thoughts on the first episode:

  • Thirty seconds in and they’ve already said “everything’s bigger in Texas” one too many times. I do like the 30 chef field though.
  • “I don’t like having to compete for the top 16″
    - Some bitch who probably won’t make it to the top 16.
  • BAM! Emeril!
  • Pink bandana is the new carpetbag.
  • Unemployed chefs on Top chef? Topical.
  • The single cut of pig opening challenge is good. I thought they might do something a little more San Antonio-themed, but this is a quality challenge for figuring out where everybody stands.
  • Wait- are any of these cooks from the South, let alone Texas? WTF?
  • “I’m a personal chef for celebrities and know everything. How do you cut pork chops again?”
  • I love you for kicking that dickweed Tyler out, Tom Colicchio.
    “You didn’t get to taste my perfectly cooked pork chop I couldn’t make”
    Ass.
  • It’s amazing how much trouble group one had. I thought this opening challenge was way more manageable than the previous opening eliminations where they judged everyone on how they chopped onions. I would never get past that.
  • Tom is obviously an intimidating judge, but Emeril has some scary intensity bubbling below the surface. If he ever yelled at me in a kitchen scenario; I can’t promise I wouldn’t cry.
  • Caribbean cruise thinks she had a good dish. Tenderloin and green beans.
    But I repeat.
  • I swear, there are STILL NO SOUTHERNERS IN THIS LINEUP!
  • Mmmmm, braised crispy pig ears. In soup, no less. Good stuff. Lofty stuff.

 

  • “I feel like this is a Chicago competition”- Sarah
    Hey, why don’t you go eat a cat turd covered in neon green relish?
  • Kentucky, North Carolina, Atlanta… Much better.
  • Nice; different challenge for group two. Rabbit orgy.
  • Oh, Rick Bayless is your mentor. Might as well just hand you the prize.\
  • “My style is most similar to Richard Blaise and Michael Voltagio.”
    Yeah, your hairstyle.
  • MY PLAN TO SLOWLY COOK FOOD IN A PLASTIC BAG IS NOT WORKING!
  • “Who does chocolate with rabbit? Not a lot of people.”
    Yeah, just you and Spain. Very exclusive group.
  • Whitney is one to look out for. Keith too. Funny that two of the Southerners would have VERY well received dishes.
  •  Confit leg of rabbit. Original.
  • The no-tattoo crew on the bubble. Cute.
  • I just turned into my grandma.

It’s shaping up to be an interesting season. The chefs so far seem to be a talented bunch, more so than some of the barrel-scraping attempts of previous seasons. It’s interesting that they’re stretching this playoff format over two episodes. It’s exciting, even if it means they won’t really explore the setting until the final lineup is decided.

Overall Grade: B+ Maybe.

 

 

 

Frito Pie: Monday Night Football Edition

Get it?

In just over an hour; the Dallas Cowboys (whooooo!) will host their most hated rival; the Washington RACIST TEAM NAME REDACTED in a classic Monday Night Matchup. Until I move to Texas; I have to be content with only watching the six to eight nationally televised Cowboys games a season. Monday night games, especially versus Washington, are particularly special, and so I celebrate them with appropriately Texan football food.

Frito Pie is the more highfalutin version of the classic Walking Taco (something I mentioned near the end of this article) and is perfect for a Monday night game when you don’t have much time to cook after you get home from work.
It’s so simple that even a RACIST TEAM NAME REDACTED fan could make it.

If he wasn't full of boiled peanuts and smoked ham, that is.

Here’s the rundown:

image

Ingredients:

  • 1 large bag of Fritos
  • 2 cans bad chili (seriously; don’t waste the good stuff on this one)
  • 1 block Sharp Cheddar Cheese
  • Beer (for drinking)

Optional:

  • Chopped onions
  • Jalapenos
  • Olives
  • Sour Cream

Ok. Preheat your oven to 350. Dump the Fritos in a deep casserole dish.Dump the chili on top of the chips. Shred the cheese on top of that and bake it for 5-10 minutes, depending on how done you like your cheese.

That’s it. That’s the whole thing. Now drink beer and yell at your TV every time they break another one of Tony Romo’s ribs.

For dessert? Guava and cheese empanadas. Here’s everything you need for that:

Do I really need to explain this one to you?

Have fun. I’m gonna go watch some football.

The Martes Chronicles: Something To Tide You Over

Stripped Bass Sashimi

So I’m still recovering from hip surgery and dealing with my life imploding. No lengthy tirade today, just a selection of photos from various projects and future articles (some of which you may have seen if you’ve taken the wise step to follow us on twitter). If you’re curious about any of the photos; drop us a line in the comment section and I’ll be happy to reveal recipes for them in future Tuesday posts.

You can expect a new recipe Monday morning, in time for the MNF Redskins-Cowboys matchup (Woot! Woot!) and The Martes Chronicles post will return to being posted early on Tuesdays.

Until then; enjoy some poorly lit food porn.

HandmadeWonton Noodle Soup with Grilled Marinated Tofu

 

Another wonton soup; this time with mock roasted pork and pre-made dumplings.

Passover Brisket

Rice Pilaf with Curry-Rubbed Grilled Chicken Thigh and Grilled Tomato

Handmade French Loaves

Rice Congee with Tea Eggs, Salted Plums, Kim Chi, Chiles and Peanuts

Cuban Sandwich with homemade Cuban-style Roasted Turkey, Turkey Ham, Swiss Cheese and Pickles on homemade Cuban Bread

Huevo Flamenca over Cheese Grits and Steamed Collards

Okonomiyaki (savory Japanese Pancake)

Cuban Picadillo with Rice, Fried Eggs, Fried Plantains and homemade Cuban Toast

Homemade Pimento Cheese with Crackers

Striped Bass Crudo

 

Striped Bass Poke

Pan-Roasted Duck in a Red Wine Reduction with Seared Apples, Roasted Root Vegetables and Sauteed Spinach.

Bacalao (Salt Cod) with Peppers, Tomatoes and Potatoes.

Handmade Squash Gnocchi with Radicchio.

Sauteed Broccolini with Walnuts and Grana Padano

Loco Moco (Hamburger and Fried Egg over Sushi Rice with Gravy)

 

All of the above dishes were made in a home kitchen, often the kitchen of a friend who didn’t always have the “necessary” equipment. I’m pretty sure that anyone reading this could pull a lot of these off with a little practice.

Especially the Italian food.

 

The Martes Chronicles: Youth In Repast

At some point in your early-to-mid-twenties you’re going to hit a fork in the road.

Oftentimes it accompanies another milestone in your life, like graduating college, moving into your first apartment or your first cohabitation with a significant other. It’s at serious points like this where you make big decisions about how you’re going to live your life, and although most people aren’t conscious of it while it’s happening, it’s at these points where you decide whether or not you’re going to be the type of person who hosts dinner parties.

For most of your early adult social life; you can afford to be less than discerning about what you eat and drink. Right about the time you hit legal drinking age it’s acceptable, hell, it’s practically required that you ignore most societal conventions concerning things like food safety, set meal times, basic nutrition, moderation and good taste. Even if you suffer the Dickensian misfortune of working in a professional kitchen at that age, your exposure to good food won’t have much of an effect on your taste as you’ll be too busy cutting off your fingers to broaden your horizons.

Becoming a know-it-all snob at that age is a luxury reserved exclusively for waitstaff and bartenders.

In fact; if you do have greater gourmet aspirations in your early twenties, and you’re not enrolled in culinary school, you will be the target of frequent mocking and derision by your peers as well as downright ostracism. 22 year old girls rarely want to hear lectures about artisinal cheese production; they’re at that party to drink Icehouse and catch chlamydia. The 22 year old girl that wants to talk heirloom bacteria strains rather than exchange them, if she exists at all, is away somewhere sipping rioja with one of her sleazier professors.

Sooner or later you either hit the point where you want to fancy-up your dinner every now and then, or you continue living off piss-beer and Totinos Party Pizzas. You might remain in a perpetual bohemian fuzz, having friends over for a crock-pot of lentils and box wine, or simply throwing barbeques as your sole plan for feeding and entertaining your friends. There’s nothing wrong with keeping it simple, especially if you don’t have money to burn on trying to be Martha Stewart.

But as you and your friends get older, start careers, get married and produce offspring you’ll find that the experience of comfortably dining with friends becomes more rare, and therefore more precious over time (Unless you work in academia where dinner parties are a regular occurrence. Then you’re just a privileged dickbag). Getting wasted and eating your weight in hotwings is always fun, but your friends may not have the ability to make time for that anymore, and might want to make your dwindling visits more special.

You don’t have to be slowly dying on the inside to throw a dinner party. Just because you have the means (a usable kitchen, a dining table, more than two plates) doesn’t necessarily mean you’re ready to host, and conversely, just because you’re in your early twenties (or merely live like you are) you shouldn’t be discouraged from attempting to throw together a feast every now and then.

Throwing a successful dinner party is, like all rewarding things in life, much like American Football. Even when keeping things extraordinarily simple, dinner parties tend to take a lot of careful scouting, planning, preparation and when you get to the actual event- a tremendous amount of improvisation. None of this, however, should intimidate you.
I have a decades-worth of experience and mistakes to draw from both as a pro caterer and as an arranger of culinary soirees spanning the spectrum from pic-a-nics and barbeques to 15 course tasting menus.

Consider the following do’s and don’ts as your introductory course.

DINNER PARTIES 101:

HOSTING DO’s:

  • Keep it simple. This is the easiest rookie mistake to make. You’re so excited to have your friends over to your new apartment and show off your considerable cooking skills, that you throw all caution to the wind and try to shoot the moon. If you’re lucky you’ll end up managing to serve your guests many hours later than expected. Instead of considering the alternative, just try to avoid being needlessly elaborate.
  • No, really. Keep it simple. This isn’t a joke. You might be a really good cook, but unless you have a staff of caterers working in your kitchen, you have to consider that you alone will be responsible for all sorts of minutia beyond just cooking.  Cleaning, setting the table, pouring drinks and serving food all take planning and effort. You don’t want to end up spending the whole time in the kitchen away from your friends, so plan in a way that won’t stretch you too thin. Speaking of which:
  • Prior Preparation. Unless you’ve got the type of kitchen setup that allows you to be cooking at the same time you entertain guests, you generally want to spend as much time as you need to in the kitchen before anyone arrives. If you’re serving food all at once or family-style (particularly appropriate for Chinese or Mexican food) you just need to have everything set up in advance so you can just finish up a few details and begin serving.
    If you want to serve courses (pretty much de rigueur for French or Italian) your preparation is much more intense. Not only do you have to pick courses (and possibly wine) that complement each other, but you to be able to prepare them enough so that they’re most of the way done before guests arrive and finish them for service as each course ends. French cuisine is particularly tough with this, but not impossible at a beginning level. I recommend this book and this book as primers on the subject; both deal with cooking for company while minimizing your time in the kitchen. I’ll get into more advanced-level stuff in a later post, but for now a good hard and fast rule is:
  • JUST FEED YOUR FRIENDS SNACKS. Even if you plan on doing an appetizer course, having a few salty snacks out beforehand as an aperitivo is always a good policy. Besides helping your friends to drink more, the snacks take a little of the pressure off the host to produce food right away. You can entertain, show off your home, pour drinks and take care of any last minute details while your guests happily munch away.
    If this is one of your first dinner parties, it might make more sense to simply forgo a formal meal and serve nothing but a variety of little dishes. This frees you up immensely, especially if you strategize properly. You can have a whole variety of cold or uncooked items out before your guests arrive (Olives, pickles, nuts, cheeses, hummus) and depending on peoples appetites you can systematically bring out more à la minute dishes (seafood, grilled vegetables, tartelettes).
    As trendy as tapas are; they’re a really good way to go and have been a standby for me since highschool. Part of the beauty of tapas is that you can make the bulk of what you serve humble (and affordable) dishes like tortilla de patatas (a potato omelette) and supplement them with fancy items like imported cheeses.
    Tapas are merely the tip of the iceberg for small-plate possibilities. French Hors d’oeuvre, Russian Zakusi, Turkish Meze, Chinese Dim Sum, Korean Banchan, Italian Cicchetti and even the much-maligned Scandinavian smörgåsbord all work on the same principle of many small plates making up a meal. Even if you don’t stick to a particular culinary framework you can apply the small plate structure to just about anything you want to make. Plus it’s a great way to show off your versatility. 

HOSTING DON’TS:

  • Don’t Panic: This is the most important thing. You’re not cooking for the Queen of England; you’re just throwing a party for some friends. Prepare well and don’t forget to breathe and you’ll do just fine.
  • Don’t be coy with your guests: Information is key, and although you’re putting a lot of time and energy into having the perfect evening, your friends (especially the younger ones) might not be on the same page with you or appreciate what you’re trying to pull off. There were a couple of times in my early twenties where my wife-to-be and I went through the ringer putting together a nice dinner party for our friends only to have them flake out at the last minute.
    Part of the reason for this is that my friends are jerks, but a big portion of the blame was on us for not communicating what we were doing. We might have known what a big deal our dinner was, but our friends had no clue it was a real grown-up dinner party and not just another bonghit-ripping conference.
    So when you invite them; let your guests know exactly what they’ll be in store for. What kind of food you’ll be serving (especially important if you want them to bring wine or beer), degree of formality and what, if anything, your friends need to provide will let them know that this isn’t just a casual beer bust.
  • Don’t depend on a Facebook RSVP: Get direct verbal conformation that your guest is attending; that way you avoid looking like an asshole when they don’t show up.
  • Don’t run out of food or booze: If you’re unsure if you have enough of everything to serve your guests, and they aren’t bringing anything to contribute, don’t throw a dinner party. It also wouldn’t hurt to stock up on extras like coffee, mineral water, soda (for the non-drinkers), toothpicks, aspirin and tampons. You may feel silly having some of those things, but people will think you’re The Batman when you’re able to provide them upon request.
  • Don’t get your guests too drunk: Unless they’re attractive and single and no one has anywhere to be the next morning.

 

Here’s some Do’s and Don’ts for first time dinner party guests:

DO:

  • Bring Wine. Or beer or tequila or whatever your host asks you to. Be sure to ask, especially in the Midwest where people aren’t always forthcoming about their needs. Make sure you know exactly what your host expects from you. If they turn out to be barbequing outside, you can bring a mini keg and flip-flops. If they’re doing a full Italian meal, ask them what kind of wine you should bring.
    If you have no idea about that; bring sparkling wine. It goes with EVERYTHING, is easy to drink and is as home in a plastic cup as it is in a crystal flute.
  • Show up if you say you will. This is another problem that seems specific to Minnesota. People will RSVP in writing and verbally, and still manage to not show up to your shindig because they had to go see some shitty indy-rock band. This happens less and less often to me now that my friends know what an awesome cook I am, but if your friends do this to you more than two consecutive times (and they don’t have a baby) then they aren’t really your friends.

DON’T:

  •  Show up full. This has to be the biggest asshole move in the history of dinner parties, and surprisingly, I’ve had a couple of people (that I don’t socialize with anymore) pull this one on me. It may seem like an obvious thing to show up hungry for a meal, but some people think it’s perfectly acceptable to show up to your dinner party carrying a freshly crumpled Wendy’s bag under their arm. Unless eating constantly is a medical necessity for you (i.e. You’re a defensive lineman or you’re from Wisconsin)  try to show a little restraint before you arrive.
  • Talk about Politics, Religion or Sex before desert is served. I seriously shouldn’t even have to say this, but Midwesterners (yet again) need to take a page from the South and learn the art of polite conversation. I’ve been to too many dinner parties to count, hosted both by young and old, where the guests (and sometimes the host, WHICH IS SUPER AWKWARD) let loose on a number of controversial topics. I’d say to treat dinner conversation as you would a conversation with a stranger on the bus, but Minnesotans (Minneapolitans in particular) don’t seem to have a problem discussing Middle East politics or abortion on the bus, so that’s not a very useful rubric.
    To those people without a social filter: STOP ASSUMING THAT JUST BECAUSE WE ARE EATING TOGETHER THAT I SHARE THE SAME POLITICAL/RELIGIOUS/SOCIAL VIEWS THAT YOU DO! Most of the people sharing this meal with you came to eat and have a good time, not have a cyclical dorm room debate that accomplishes nothing and pisses everybody off.

 

I hope this has been helpful. Let me know in the comment section if there’s anything you’d specifically like to know for the second level Dinner Party Class. Also feel free to share your horror or success stories on the subject.

Reducer Podcast 108: Wanted; Breaded or Fried

The entire episode in one photo

In this untimely episode of the Reducer podcast, which was posted a full week after it might have been relevant, Brian, a bag of potatoes and Joe interview their first guest; pastry chef Brian Titus.

Topics include; Paula Deen; Poop diaries; Southern Food; the dangers of sweet tea & chai; pimento cheese; sea salt & corn syrup; the hippiefication of fast food; behind the scenes at KFC; Taco Bell meat; Jon Bon Jovi’s free restaurant; koshering a kitchen and much much more.

WARNING: Explicit Language. Not suitable for adults.

 

The Law Firm of Chicken & Dumplings

In my experience; Northerners have a tendency to screw up chicken and dumplings.That’s not to say I haven’t had decent versions of the dish north of the IHOP/Waffle House line, but they’re few and far between.

Southern chicken & dumplings, despite their many regional variations throughout the south, tend to be a rich, unctuous affair. More often then not the dumplings work overtime as the main attraction, filler and most importantly to provide a creaminess to the broth in the absence of milk or cream.

Northern (particularly Midwestern) chicken and dumplings are usually just chicken soup with a pile of Bisquick batter floated on top for the final half hour of cooking. It isn’t the worst thing, but once you’ve eaten the southern version, the Yankee equivalent just doesn’t satisfy as much on a cold winters night.

This recipe is fairly involved prep-wise, but once you have everything in the pot it’s incredibly low maintenance, plus you end up with a far richer-tasting dish then you’d expect from a bunch of stewed chicken and vegetables.

A note on butchering chicken: I really wanted to provide you with pictures on how to do this, but I didn’t have a camera operator handy and didn’t want to get salmonella all over my camera. The recipe calls for a whole chicken because you need to use the carcass for stock. If you’re absolutely terrified of butchering your own chicken; try to find a butchered one at your market that still has the ribs and back. If you can’t find that; pick up a couple of chicken necks and use those in place of the carcass.

You’re going to need the following:

  • 1 Whole Chicken, breasts, thighs, legs and wings separated- carcass split in half.
  • 1 lb of Carrots, washed (not peeled) and sliced into 2″ chunks
  • 1 bunch Celery, trimmed and sliced into 2″ pieces
  • 1 Onion, quartered
  • 1/4 cup Vegetable Oil
  • 2 1/2 quarts Water
  • Fresh Parsley, chopped
  • Kosher salt
  • Fresh Ground Pepper

For the Dumplings:

  • 3 cups All-Purpose Flour
  • 5 large eggs
  • 2 teaspoons Kosher Salt
  • 1/2 cup to 1&1/2 cups water

In a large stock pot; heat half of the vegetable oil on medium high. When the oil is hot; throw in your wings and split carcass (or neckbones if you’ve got them) and brown them on both sides.

 

 

 

 

Once browned; add the 2 1/2 quarts of water. Turn heat to high and bring to a boil. Skim any surface crud, cover and reduce to a low simmer for about an hour.

 

In a Dutch Oven or heavy skillet; heat the other half of the veggie oil on medium high.

Brown the rest of the chicken pieces; in batches if you don’t have enough room in the pan. Set chicken aside but keep the pan on the heat. Add the onions and sweat them out in the hot chicken fat until translucent, then set aside.

(Sweating the onions is really important if you use a slow cooker for the final steps, but do it regardless because it will just plain taste better)

Now that it’s probably been an hour; strain your stock and set it aside. Let the remaining chicken parts you just strained cool for a few minutes; then strip as much meat off the bones as you can.

Put that meat with the rest of your chicken and throw away the bones so your cat doesn’t choke on them.

Throw all your chicken, onions, carrots and celery into a stock pot or slow cooker. Fill it up with as much stock as possible and add 2 tablespoons of salt and 1 tablespoon each chopped parsley and fresh ground pepper.

If you’re making this on the stove; bring to a low boil (on high) then cover and simmer on low for 4 to 6 hours. If you’re making this in a slow cooker; do 2 hours on high and at least 3 hours on low.

Take this time to clean up all the chicken grease that no doubt splattered all over your stove top.

To make the dumplings:

45 minutes before you’re ready to serve; combine the flour and eggs in a large mixing bowl. Slowly add a half cup of water to the mixture and add more water (only if necessary) until it forms a sticky batter solid enough to manipulate with your hands.

Form the batter into balls (clods, really) no bigger than a golf ball (they will swell up during cooking) then dredge them in flour so that they’re fully dusted and dry to the touch.

Bring your stew up to medium high and gently place the dumplings on the top of the liquid.

IMPORTANT! DO NOT STIR THE DUMPLINGS INTO THE STEW!

Not unless you want flour-flavored chicken soup anyway. Instead; use a slotted spoon to gently submerge each of the dumplings just under the surface, just getting the tops of them wet with the top layer of chicken fat and stock.

Put a lid on it and simmer for about 35 minutes.

If you’re ready to serve but your dumplings are a little large and unwieldy; they should be tender enough for you to split them with a ladle.

A Note on Leftovers:

These are even better on the second day; but the dumplings have a tendency to suck up all the stock while sitting in the fridge. When this happens; I like to “Truck Stop” the dish by making a supplemental stock of water, bouillon and a little bit of Wondra flour, adding this to the leftover chicken and dumplings and reheating the whole mess on the stove in lieu of the microwave.

This creates almost an entirely different dish; closer in flavor to canned chicken and dumplings only better because you know where it came from.