The Martes Chronicles: What We Did Last Summer (Part Two)

¡Bienvenidos a Miami! This is where Tony Montana shot those Colombians.

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We talk a lot of crap about Florida on the podcast, and rightly so. The state at large is a magnet for drug-fueled white trash insanity of the worst order. From my brief time living in Ft. Lauderdale to every other episode of COPS; I’ve come to learn that shirtless ferret ownership is not only a way of life there, but an institution on par with common-law marriage. That being said; I love me some Miami.

I don’t mind the sweltering heat, the sprawl of the city, the rampant douchebaggery or even the painfully obvious contrast between rich and poor. I mean, I mind them, but they don’t ruin Miami for me.

Grocery store mural in Little Haiti"

What makes Miami work is its diversity. Cubans; Haitians; Jews; African Americans; South Americans; West Africans; Southeast Asians; Florida White Trash. They all contribute a great deal to shaping the multifaceted spirit of the city, especially when it comes to food.

One half of the restaurant industry here seems to be dominated by high end, chef-driven establishments whose food and decor look like a cross between a P. Diddy video and the movie Tron.

I think this was a salad.

The other, and far more approachable, class of restaurants are the various small ethnic diners and restaurants specializing in the cuisine of the various immigrant groups who call Miami home. Especially Cuban and Haitian food.

My initial interest in cooking developed when I lived in South Florida. I was already interested in the then un-trendy cuisine of Spain, but it was my exposure to Cuban cuisine through these small, family-owned restaurants that compelled me to attempt cooking the dishes I enjoyed for my family and friends. In the 15+ years since then, even while working at a Cuban restaurant, Spanish and Caribbean cuisines have always been a comfortable fallback when cooking for loved ones (unlike Mexican food, which is what I cook when I’m showing off for girls).

For this visit; my history made finding an acceptable Cuban breakfast place near our hotel a major priority. Luckily there was the above hole-in-the-wall just a block away. The service wasn’t great, but the waitresses were customarily hot, the eggs with turkey were filling and the cortaditos were strong in the best possible ways. Breakfast left us full for hours, but the Cuban espresso with milk fueled further exploration of South Beach and Little Haiti without need for a siesta.

I'm certain that Cuban bread had lard in it. Oh well, when in Miami...

Little Haiti didn’t have much going on. The open-air community market our cab driver promised would be open was shuttered and deserted. In fact, most of the neighborhood seemed like a ghost town, save for a few churches overflowing with beautiful music. We checked out a few grocery stores looking for Haitian cigarettes, to no avail, and so we headed back to South Beach for one of two visits to the Tap Tap Haitian Restaurant.

Barbancourt Rhum with guava

On our first visit we had drank Prestige lager and eaten goat stew. It was such an enjoyable time that we went back for a second visit to kill a few hours before our plane ride.

Goat Stew and Prestige Lager

We drank a lot of rum rhum drinks on the second visit; tempering our alcohol intake with fresh cigars…

Barbancourt Rhum with Lime Juice

and a platter of fried akra, sweet potatoes, plantains and goat with a variety of dipping sauces.

Plat Fritay

I can’t stress how awesome the above dish was. I could eat it every day. In fact, all the Haitian food I tried was quite good. It has many of the same ingredients and techniques as other Afro-Caribbean cuisines, only with a distinctly French touch.

Despite a lot of personal heartbreak on this trip, the magic of Miami didn’t fail to lift my spirits and give me a series of irreplaceable food memories. If I wasn’t so hellbent on living in the Southwest; I could be very comfortable living a simple life in South Beach. Quaffing rhum drinks and eating up all the fried goat I could get my hands on.

Also; the women there are RIDICULOUSLY hot. That never hurts.

 

 

 

 

The Martes Chronicles: Something To Tide You Over

Stripped Bass Sashimi

So I’m still recovering from hip surgery and dealing with my life imploding. No lengthy tirade today, just a selection of photos from various projects and future articles (some of which you may have seen if you’ve taken the wise step to follow us on twitter). If you’re curious about any of the photos; drop us a line in the comment section and I’ll be happy to reveal recipes for them in future Tuesday posts.

You can expect a new recipe Monday morning, in time for the MNF Redskins-Cowboys matchup (Woot! Woot!) and The Martes Chronicles post will return to being posted early on Tuesdays.

Until then; enjoy some poorly lit food porn.

HandmadeWonton Noodle Soup with Grilled Marinated Tofu

 

Another wonton soup; this time with mock roasted pork and pre-made dumplings.

Passover Brisket

Rice Pilaf with Curry-Rubbed Grilled Chicken Thigh and Grilled Tomato

Handmade French Loaves

Rice Congee with Tea Eggs, Salted Plums, Kim Chi, Chiles and Peanuts

Cuban Sandwich with homemade Cuban-style Roasted Turkey, Turkey Ham, Swiss Cheese and Pickles on homemade Cuban Bread

Huevo Flamenca over Cheese Grits and Steamed Collards

Okonomiyaki (savory Japanese Pancake)

Cuban Picadillo with Rice, Fried Eggs, Fried Plantains and homemade Cuban Toast

Homemade Pimento Cheese with Crackers

Striped Bass Crudo

 

Striped Bass Poke

Pan-Roasted Duck in a Red Wine Reduction with Seared Apples, Roasted Root Vegetables and Sauteed Spinach.

Bacalao (Salt Cod) with Peppers, Tomatoes and Potatoes.

Handmade Squash Gnocchi with Radicchio.

Sauteed Broccolini with Walnuts and Grana Padano

Loco Moco (Hamburger and Fried Egg over Sushi Rice with Gravy)

 

All of the above dishes were made in a home kitchen, often the kitchen of a friend who didn’t always have the “necessary” equipment. I’m pretty sure that anyone reading this could pull a lot of these off with a little practice.

Especially the Italian food.

 

Reducer Podcast 105: Ayo for Faygo

The entire podcast in one photo

On the latest and largely food-related episode of the Reducer Podcast; the guys sample three kinds of sugar water imported from the exotic foreign land of Detroit.

Somewhere on their journey through the liquid rock candy mountain; Jawn, Brian and Joe discuss Guy Fieri’s stolen Lambo; Drinking soy sauce; Midwestern prejudice towards fried chicken and waffles; Grape Malt liquor; a wine tasting at the W Hotel, Brian’s Red-Vines self abuse; Elderflower liqueur; Cake vs. Pie; Family Meal; eating baby food and a lengthy examination of the mother sauces.

Music by Das Racist

Warning: Explicit Language. Not suitable for adults.

At the Pollo… Pollocabana.

The hottest place north of Havana...

Just because you never worked at an overrated Cuban restaurant for a couple of years doesn’t mean you can’t be taught how to make Cuban food yourself. The fact that you don’t have to unlearn many of the dirty shortcuts you would have been taught means you have a slight advantage over me.

In the years since I worked at redacted, I’ve had to research the more traditional techniques and flavors that Cuban cooking requires. It’s not that it’s particularly difficult or challenging; it’s just my restaurant experience left me with the false impression that Cuban cuisine could come entirely off the back of a Sysco truck and still be considered tasty and authentic.

Most of South Minneapolis still suffers from this misconception. (burn)

Real Cuban food, made with fresh ingredients and attention to detail, is delicious, filling and usually cheaper to prepare for large groups of people than a lot of other cuisines. One of the cornerstones of Cuban food is pork roasted in garlic and lime juice.

Since I’m a reasonably observant Jew, I don’t eat pork anymore, but I still use the same technique for turkey and chicken that I would for pork. The result is equally delicious, moist and versatile as the original, without all that nasty swine.

If you dare question the authenticity of cooking poultry in this style, please note that Jews have been in Cuba since at least 1493, and have been cooking chicken and turkey in this manner for almost as long.

So below I have your chicken recipe; plus some notes on the required sides to this dish (black beans, rice, mojo criollo, fried yuca) and more.

You’re going to need the following:

For the Poultry:

  • Either: 3 Chicken Breasts (split into 6) or 2 large Turkey Breasts (split into 4). Both must have skin & ribs intact.
  • 1 head of Garlic, peeled and chopped
  • 2 cups Lime Juice (preferably fresh, but if not, use the bottled Key Lime juice)
  • 1 1/2 cups Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 1 tablespoon dried Oregano
  • 2 Bay leaves, crumbled
  • 1 teaspoon Ground Cumin
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt

For the Mojo Criollo:

  • 8 cloves garlic, crushed or finely chopped.
  • 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
  • 1/2 cup sour orange juice or 1/4 cup sweet orange juice and 1/4 cup lime juice.
  • 1/2 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil (preferably Spanish)
  • 1 teaspoon salt.

Preheat your oven to 375°

Rinse and pat dry your chicken breasts. Arrange them in a deep roasting pan so that they aren’t overlapping too much.

Sprinkle with salt and cumin.

 

 

Pour your lime juice into the pan. Then sprinkle the garlic, oregano and bay leaf evenly over the surface of the chicken.

Carefully pour the olive oil all over the chicken making sure the garlic/herb mixture gets a decent coat of it. Tightly cover the pan with foil and roast in the 375° oven for 1 & 1/2 hours.

 

You’ve pretty much got the hardest part out of the way; so consider some sides…

Black Beans:

Make one package of dry black beans according to instructions. When fully cooked; do the following:

  • Saute 1 medium onion, 1 green pepper (preferably a Cubanelle) and 6 cloves of garlic in 1/2 cup olive oil.
  • When fully sweated add 1/2 teaspoon of oregano and 1 crushed bay leaf
  • Stir that around a bit more, then add the mixture to your cooked beans with 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar and 1 tablespoon bouillon seasoning*.
  • Heat the seasoned beans back up slowly, and they’re ready to serve.
  • Serve with medium grain white rice.

*The bouillon is optional if you have a complex about MSG, but at this point in history it’s pretty authentic.

Okay; if it’s been an hour and a half; check on your chicken. Pull the foil off that bad boy and baste the surface of the chicken with some of the cooking liquid. Turn the heat up to 400°.  Put it back in the oven for another 45 minutes to an hour.

Meanwhile…

You should let all your mojo ingredients sit out at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. Right before you’re ready to serve; heat the 1/2 cup of olive oil on medium-high in a medium sauce pan. When it gets very hot (but not smoking) throw in the other mojo ingredients and stir quickly with a wooden spoon (watch out for splattering).

That’s it. You’ve made mojo. Now when you serve your Cuban food you can dump that stuff on all your sides. As a challenge to you the reader; I’m only going to list them until you DEMAND FROM ME THE RECIPES! The meal just won’t be complete without:

  • Boiled or Fried Yuca (cassava)
  • Twice-fried Plantains (tostones)
  • Collard Greens
  • A simple salad of Avocado, Grapefruit and Red Onion

All of these should get a healthy dose of mojo, but if you take the cowards way out and opt not to make them, you can always dump that mojo on your chicken…. Which should be ready by now.

This is about what your chicken should look like when it’s done. There are two schools of thought on what to do next; and either one will work depending on your immediate purposes:

  1. Let the chicken cool for just a few minutes then shred it with a pair of meat forks until it’s all a big mess of shredded chicken and saucy goodness. You can pick out the bigger bones; but expect that your diners will do some of that work themselves. This is the technique you want to employ if you’re serving it up on a platter with rice and beans. OR
  2. Let the chicken cool for an hour; then pull it apart by hand (wear some rubber gloves for this part, please) taking extra special care to remove all the little rib bones. This technique is perfect if you’re going to use the chicken in tamales, empanadas or sandwiches.

With all that rice, beans and chicken; you’ll probably be full for a couple of days. But unless you’re feeding a squad of partisan guerrillas, you’ll probably have some chicken left over.

In addition to begging me for the secrets of yuca and plantain (one’s easy, the other is potentially toxic if you make it wrong) if you want to make the best use of your leftover chicken; you’re just going to have to come back to Reducer and learn how to make one of these bad boys:

Oh yes we did...