The Martes Chronicles: Moves Like Nikujaga

I’m busy and it’s cold, cold, cold outside. Let’s cook up some meat and potatoes, Japanese style. Nikujaga (pronounced like Mick-oo Jagga) is Japan’s answer to the pot roasts and beef stews of the western world. In fact, it was developed by Japanese naval chefs in imitation of the beef stew the British navy served to its sailors. I’m sure you’re at a loss to come up with a finer culinary pedigree than “British Military Cuisine“, but bear with me for a moment. In order to understand why the Japanese would adopt something so seemingly mundane with, as it turns out, a great deal of enthusiasm, we must step into the WABAC Machine for a moment. For the better part of three centuries, Japan experienced a period of self-imposed isolation from external cultural influence. From 1603 to 1853 Japan experienced minimal contact with foreigners beyond their archipelago; limited mostly to Dutch trading ships allowed in once a year and private Chinese vessels. This isolation was in direct resistance to European (particularly Portuguese) attempts at colonization. By avoiding the economic and religious domination from foreign powers experienced by so many of the neighboring countries in East Asia, Japan underwent a cultural refinement almost unprecedented in world history. Despite (or possibly because of) near-constant civil warfare; the Japanese took a culture and cuisine largely borrowed from China and Korea and created something wholly unique. In the 1850′s; American gunboats forced the Japanese to open their harbors to foreign trade. The rapid mixing of modern industrial society with that of a country sequestered within an idiosyncratic feudal culture had longstanding historical and cultural ramifications ranging from World War II to tentacle rape. Free trade brought in new dishes which the Japanese began to develop a taste for like curry, spaghetti and tomato sauce and breaded pork cutlets. These days Japanese cuisine is loaded with borrowed dishes that, while only about a century and a half old, are intrinsic comfort food to the Japanese.

guaranteed payday loans

Nikujaga is one of the most accessible examples of this kind of proto-fusion cuisine. Literally meaning “meat and potatoes”; nikujaga is simple to make, delicious on a cold day and easily adaptable to whatever variations you feel like making.

Here’s what you need to serve about 8 people:

  • 1 1/2 LBS Short Ribs, Bones removed (Sliced or Ground Beef will suffice)
  • 2 large White Onions (sliced into rings)
  • 4 large Baking Potatoes (Peeled and cut into large chunks)
  • 1/2 LB Carrots (scrubbed and sliced into 1″ lengths)
  • 1 oz Dried Shitake Mushrooms (rinsed)
  • 1 1/2 Cups Sugar
  • 1 Cup Mirin*
  • 3/4 Cup Tamari or Light Soy Sauce
  • 1/2 Cup Dark Soy Sauce
  • Short Grain Japanese Rice
  • Sliced Scallions
  • Shichimi Togarashi (optional)
*If you don’t have any Mirin sub 3/4 cup of Rice Wine (can be found at most asian markets) and 1/2 cup honey.
Steep dried mushrooms in 2 cups boiling water for ten minutes. Strain and reserve the broth. Once mushrooms cool; remove and discard the stems and slice the caps in half.
In a large pot; brown your meat in batches so that it looks good and you have a decent amount of rendered beef fat in your pot.
Add a little extra vegetable oil to the pot if need be and throw your Mushrooms, Onions and Carrots into the medium-hot (but not smoking) beef fat. Saute them until the onions and carrots begin to soften, about ten minutes.
Deglaze the pot with your reserved mushroom stock. Add the beef, sugar, soy sauces and mirin to the pot along with enough water to comfortably cover everything and bring to a boil. Skim the fat from the top using a ladle or the “traditional Japanese method” I learned from the person who taught me how to cook nikujaga; using a paper towel. Once skimmed, simmer on low with a lid on for about an hour. Add the potatoes and simmer with the lid on for another hour.

Check and see how the broth tastes. Too salty? Add more sugar. Too sweet? Add some salt. Too bland? More soy sauce. Meanwhile, drink some sake.
You should be all set. Is your rice cooked? The short-grain sushi rice?
You better get on that.

Ladle the stew into bowls. Top with a big scoop of rice. Garnish with the scallions and if you want some spice; the Shichimi Togarashi.

Enjoy the benefits of cultural apropriation.

The Martes Chronicles: Talking Turkey Day Part Two: Postmortem

Turkey Duck ATM

Editors Note: Late again. Blame my computer this time. You’ll still get two more THMQB this week. By Sunday at the latest.

If you read last weeks installment of The Martes Chronicles; you were no doubt waiting with baited breath to find out how our M*A*S*HGiving Korean-American mash-up meal. went. In a word: Awesome.

Fridge Full of Prep

What started with a dream and the above fridge filled with ingredients turned into a massively successful undertaking. Don’t believe me? Here are the highlights.

Kimchi...spread it all over yo body

Here’s the quick kimchi General BBQ banged out with just salt, Korean Chili powder and Napa Cabbage. He sealed it in a cryovac bag for about 36 hours and damned if it didn’t taste like kimchi, minus the usual fermented aftertaste. Great stuff.

Crank dat Soju Boy.

And what goes better with kimchi than bottle after bottle of Korean rice whiskey?
A nap. That’s what.

Gib-Chi Prep

Gib-Chi on the wok

We decided to stuff our turkey with sauteed giblets and kimchi (which Brian named “Gib-Chi”) and do a regular (albeit Asian inspired) bread stuffing outside the bird.
Good call. Plus, “gib-chi” makes me giggle like a schoolgirl every time I hear it.

Here was our appetizer/banchan assortment at the begining of the night.
Curious what we ate?

  1. Various rice crackers.
  2. Edamame and the remains of a scallion sallad.
  3. Tsukemono (Japanese rice bran pickles) and Brian’s homemade garlic pickle.
  4. Store Bough kimchi, white kimchi, lettuce with chili-beanpaste.
  5. Homemade kimchi.
  6. Blanched beansprouts dressed in sesame oil and seasalt.
  7. Korean Nori.
  8. My homegirl Kelly made both a cucumber and beansprout kimchi. Awesomesauce.

And now for the entrees:

  1. Ginger-brined, Gib-Chi stuffed, plum and shoyu glazed turkey.
  2. Short grain rice, and not a mashed potato to be seen.
  3. Turkey gravy.
  4. Mushroom gravy.
  5. Sweet potatoes with miso butter and curry powder.
  6. Brined, roasted whole duck.
  7. Bread stuffing with ginger, scallions and water chestnuts.
  8. Scallion and Beansprout pancakes with dipping sauces.
  9. Duck jus.

In this picture you can see we also had cranberry sauce.

Yeah, the cranberry sauce was just cranberries stewed in a little orange and pomegranate juice with some ginger and sugar. THAT was pretty good too.

When the meal was over, and we had eaten Titus’ Sweet Potato Cheesecake for dessert, we did the responsible thing and continued drinking and chucking the football around in the dark until the wee hours.
The dishes had to wait for about 12 hours…

But we DID clean the kitchen.

Thanks to everyone who participated, especially the hosts. Looks like if I’m not in the Twin Cities a year from now, y’all are ordering pizza next Thanksgiving.

If you have any questions about how we made stuff, hit us up in the comments.

 

The Martes Chronicles: Pilaf And Go

Moghul Style rice Pilaf with Curried Chicken and Grilled Tomato

Few dishes span geography and history in as grand a manner as rice pilaf. Or pilau. or palov. Or palau. Or pulao. Or sopa seca, if you will. How the did rice cooked in broth become a common dish stretching from Asia to the Near East, North Africa, Europe and Central America?

It starts with the Persians (that’s what Iranians used to call themselves), and their neighbors in Central Asia, who were some of the first rice cultivators in the world. Having rice (typically of a long grain Basmati-style variety) as your staple food can get boring very fast, so the Persians developed multiple preparations for their rice, each producing a very different result based on the steaming/boiling/par-cooking methods used.

It doesn’t take much imagination to realize that cooking the rice in a seasoned broth would be considered both highly nutritious and a little luxurious, what with broth being relatively more expensive than plain water. When Alexander the Great encountered the Persian Empire; he was fed a variant of pilaf by the locals; enjoying the dish so much that he brought the recipe back to Macedonia where it was in turn spread throughout Eastern Europe.

The story of pilaf is the story of the rise and fall of empires. The Persians spread the dish through Afghanistan, Central Asia, Turkey and the Arabian peninsula. The Turks brought it with them into their conquered territories, including parts of Europe and Asia Alexander never reached. During the course of the geopolitical rise of Islam the Arabs spread it throughout their domain, from the Middle East and North Africa all the way into Spain and Southern Italy.

The Spanish dishes of Arroz con Pollo and Paella and the basic methods behind Italian Risotto all stem from that Arab/Persian legacy. More on Spain in a moment.

The dish also spread eastward. The Mughal rulers of Northern India (and modern day Bangladesh, Kashmir and Pakistan) brought Islamic culture and religion to the subcontinent, and with it a variety of pilaf variations, such as Briyani and Pilau. In the parts of Southeast Asia where ethnic Indian communities traveled to (Burma and Indonesia especially) they brought variants of pilaf with them. Visitors to Singapore and Malaysia will find the same cooking style for pilaf utilizing Southeast Asian ingredients and flavors.

Over on the Iberian peninsula; the Spaniards reconquered their country after almost 800 years of Muslim rule. In 1492 they began both a campaign of ethnically cleansing Spain and Portugal of Jews and Muslims, as well as their exploration and colonization of the New World. Rice came with them, as well as refugee communities of Sephardi Jews who brought the Middle Eastern style rice, noodle and broth preparations. The descendants of those dishes can be seen on the everyday Mexican table in the Sopa Secas (literally “dry soups”) served with all main meals.

Rice pilaf has even become a staple in the US. What did you think Rice-a-Roni was?

Sopa Seca con Fideos

The running current of all these dishes, beyond being rice cooked in broth, is that they lend themselves to being served to large groups. Pilaf isn’t something you throw together for yourself, it’s a dish representative of hospitality traditions spanning the globe. From the breaking of a Ramadan fast in Jakarta, an upscale hotel in India, a Bedouin tent or a Quinceañera in El Paso- the presence of a rice pilaf transforms a meal into a feast.

So how the hell do you make it?

At it’s most basic; all you’ll need is long grain rice and good flavorful stock. The rest is a matter of plugging in different savories, spices, meats, fruits, vegetables, nuts and noodles to customize it to whatever framework you want it to fit in. Below is the basic technique, along with a few different variations you can try. Mix and match them. Experiment. That’s how we got the wealth of pilaf recipes we have now.

Your basic ratio should be 1 part rice; 2 parts stock.
Any long grain rice will do, but Indian Basmati rice is ideal for fluffy pilafs where the grains are separate. I recommend rinsing and draining the rice three times, making sure it’s not too damp when you’re ready to cook.

The flavor of the stock is up to you. Neutral stocks like chicken and vegetable tend to be flavorful without overpowering the other components. If you’re serving lamb with your pilaf, then use lamb stock, and so on. Make a little more than you need, just in case, and have your stock just short of boiling when you’re ready to cook.

Before you heat up your cooking fat in a heavy bottomed pan with a tight fitting lid; you’re going to need to consider a few things. Namely; which of the following ingredients you care to incorporate:

  • Cooking Fat:
    Vegetable oil, Olive oil, Grapeseed oil or Ghee (clarified butter)
  • Starches:
    Rice (rinsed), dry toasted noodles (like fideos)
  • Savories
    Onion, Garlic, Carrot, Chopped Peppers, Ginger,  Mushrooms.
  • Spices
    Curry or Cardamon and Fennel Seed (for Indian-style), Cinnamon and Cardamon (Turkish/Persian), Saffron, Cumin and Cardamon (Middle Eastern).
  • Veggies, Fruit & Nuts:
    Peas, Tomatoes, Raisins, Grapes, Cashews, Slivered Almonds, Sultanas, Chopped Dates, Apples.

So you heat your fat in the pan to medium high. Throw in your onions and saute until translucent (or brown them if you prefer a stronger flavor).
Toss in your rice and stir constantly until each grain is lightly toasted.
If you’re using toasted noodles; throw them in now.
Add your spices and remaining savories and stir until lightly toasted.
Add your stock and any fruits, veggies or nuts you plan on adding. Stir well.
Bring to a boil and cover. Immediately bring to a low simmer.

That’s it! It should take about 35-45 minutes to cook.
DO NOT OPEN THE POT BEFORE THAT!

Once all the liquid is absorbed; fluff with a fork and serve immediately. If you don’t open it too many times; you can keep it warm in the oven with the lid tightly sealed.

Serve by itself or with anything that sounds good. Enjoy.

 

 

 

The Martes Chronicles: Something To Tide You Over

Stripped Bass Sashimi

So I’m still recovering from hip surgery and dealing with my life imploding. No lengthy tirade today, just a selection of photos from various projects and future articles (some of which you may have seen if you’ve taken the wise step to follow us on twitter). If you’re curious about any of the photos; drop us a line in the comment section and I’ll be happy to reveal recipes for them in future Tuesday posts.

You can expect a new recipe Monday morning, in time for the MNF Redskins-Cowboys matchup (Woot! Woot!) and The Martes Chronicles post will return to being posted early on Tuesdays.

Until then; enjoy some poorly lit food porn.

HandmadeWonton Noodle Soup with Grilled Marinated Tofu

 

Another wonton soup; this time with mock roasted pork and pre-made dumplings.

Passover Brisket

Rice Pilaf with Curry-Rubbed Grilled Chicken Thigh and Grilled Tomato

Handmade French Loaves

Rice Congee with Tea Eggs, Salted Plums, Kim Chi, Chiles and Peanuts

Cuban Sandwich with homemade Cuban-style Roasted Turkey, Turkey Ham, Swiss Cheese and Pickles on homemade Cuban Bread

Huevo Flamenca over Cheese Grits and Steamed Collards

Okonomiyaki (savory Japanese Pancake)

Cuban Picadillo with Rice, Fried Eggs, Fried Plantains and homemade Cuban Toast

Homemade Pimento Cheese with Crackers

Striped Bass Crudo

 

Striped Bass Poke

Pan-Roasted Duck in a Red Wine Reduction with Seared Apples, Roasted Root Vegetables and Sauteed Spinach.

Bacalao (Salt Cod) with Peppers, Tomatoes and Potatoes.

Handmade Squash Gnocchi with Radicchio.

Sauteed Broccolini with Walnuts and Grana Padano

Loco Moco (Hamburger and Fried Egg over Sushi Rice with Gravy)

 

All of the above dishes were made in a home kitchen, often the kitchen of a friend who didn’t always have the “necessary” equipment. I’m pretty sure that anyone reading this could pull a lot of these off with a little practice.

Especially the Italian food.

 

Reducer Podcast 107: Sometimes Never is Better Than Late

The entire episode in one photo

After a lengthy absence; the Seventh Episode of The Reducer Podcast decides to grace us with its presence. About damn time.

The ghost of Julia Child starts things off right, before the episode quickly devolves into a verbal free-for-all that fails to live up to the promise of its lengthy production time.     Topics include; Tyra Banks; Liz Taylor; Cake Shows; Cake vs. Pie (again); Nutrition labels in restaurants; Bartending Records; The Death of Soup; Vegetarian McGangbangs; Medicating with food; Beefmato; Radiation in Japanese food; Keeping Kosher for Passover; KFP Coke; and Movies that make us hungry.

(Recorded 03/29/11)

WARNING: Explicit Language. Not suitable for adults.

 

Reducer Podcast 104: Woktoast Intolerance

The entire episode in one photo

In Episode 4 of the new & improved Reducer Podcast; the guys hit their sophomore slump at full speed with a load of new segments, news, cooking stories and dry, painful-sounding coughs.

The Hack of the Week segment returns, and Jawn challenges Joe and Brian to each develop a recipe off the top of their heads. Topics include McDonald’s regional cuisine, SF food truck controversy, female sushi chefs, Brian’s Red Vines experiment, flavored whiskey, cocktails with a toast back, the glory of the turbo-wok and much, much more.

NOTE: This was recorded three days before the tragedy in Japan, in case you’re wondering why we’re talking about sushi for ten minutes without bringing up earthquakes or tsunamis.

Warning: Explicit Language. Not suitable for adults.

REMIX! East meets west: curried potstickers and dirty rice.

image

This is a perfect example of a point I made in the original curry post…It’s good for just about anything you have just awaiting fate in your icebox.

Originally, I had planned on doing a full-blown BBQ spread tonight, (Stay tuned later this week!) but my wife and I had a full day of cleaning and baby watching, so I didn’t have the energy for another massive food/photo-journalism venture.

So I opened the fridge…Curry? check. Rice? check. Carefully made scratch asian dumplings Very decent frozen potstickers from the Asian grocer? check. Chicken gizzards? double-check.

I chopped one yellow onion, sweated it with a couple crushed garlic cloves, and added my finely diced gizzards and a couple cups of rice into a very hot pan of oil. When the mix became dry, I added chicken stock slowly, a half-cup at a time, and in the end, I had added about 4 cups of stock when my rice was almost done. then, i tossed in the potstickers and curry, and turned the heat very low

image

Fifteen minutes later, My house was filled with that sweet smell again, and my wife was calling from the next room to ask how much longer dinner would be. (Always a good sign!) I was allready plating and busting out the cilantro. (It doesn’t matter if I’m at work, or at home, I always mince way more cilantro than I need.)

image

One more Modelo grande, and a little SriRacha made this remix a hit. Just remember, no matter how crazy the combinations, curry will tie most anything together. Could this be linked to the explaination of the popularity of anime in white males over 30, as well as the mullet hair cut in chinese and indian youth? Stay tuned…

image

Local Ramen Makes Good

Just a little something I threw together

So the Wifey and I wanted something vaguely Chinese but it was too late to visit the Asian market and picking up takeout didn’t seem that appealing. Luckily I had the spare ingredients and the wherewithal to throw together a noodle stir-fry that didn’t disappoint.

Here’s what I had:

  • 4 packages of instant ramen, noodles cooked and rinsed, seasoning powder/oil set aside.
  • 2 cups Shitake mushrooms; washed and sliced
  • 1 bag of fresh spinach; blanched and chopped
  • A bunch of scallions; cut three ways (White portion intact, green part 1/2 chopped and 1/2 sliced thinly lengthwise.
  • 1 tablespoon fresh chopped ginger
  • 6 eggs; beaten lightly
  • 1 teaspoon crushed dried chilis
  • 1 cup shoyu
  • 1/2 cup raw sugar
  • 2 tablespoons Hoisin sauce
  • 1 tablespoon sriracha
  • 1 cup crushed peanuts or cashews
  • Handful of chopped cilantro
  • 1 teaspoon sesame oil
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable or peanut oil
  • 1 cup stock or bullion

Heat up a wok or a large shallow pan on high. Add half of your vegetable oil to the hot pan and wait for it to just begin smoking.

Throw your mushrooms in and stir them around to keep them from scorching. If they start to burn before they’re as caramelized as you’d like them to be, add a little stock.

Once mushrooms are nice and browned; throw in your ginger and white scallion stalks, stirring rapidly until most of the moisture evaporates. Add the sesame oil, chilies and garlic.

Stir for roughly 30 seconds, making sure your garlic doesn’t burn (a couple teaspoons of stock will buy you some time with that).

Transfer everything to a warm plate and wipe down your pan (DO NOT WASH IT! You need the seasoning you’ve built up if you want it to work right). Add a couple tablespoons of veggie oil to the pan and let it heat back up.

Throw in your eggs and scramble them quickly. Once they’re solid (but not yet fully cooked) transfer them to the plate you’re keeping the aromatics on.

Put the rest of the oil in the pan and bring it up to full heat. Throw in your noodles, sugar, seasoning oil and powder and quickly toss the noodles in the pan so they’re evenly coated.

Keep everything moving constantly; the object being that the coating on your noodles caramelizes the surface of each individual noodle.

This is the same effect you try to achieve when making fried rice, and one of the most difficult stir-fry techniques to master. If your noodles begin clumping together, it’s probably because you have too much moisture or not enough heat on the pan.            Don’t be discouraged if your noodles end up being all clumpy, they’ll still taste okay and you’ll always have next time.

Once your noodles have a nice even sear on them; throw in your egg/aromatic mixture and stir well.

You can now repeat the previous step with the following ingredients in the order given; always remembering to bring the pan up to heat before adding the next ingredient.              This is the secret to good stir-fry.

  • Hoisin/Sriracha
  • Spinach
  • Long-sliced scallions
  • Peanuts/Cashews


Transfer the noodles into individual serving bowls or one large platter if you’re rocking it family style. Garnish with chopped scallions and cilantro. Delicious hot or a few hours later as a leftover.

1, 2, 1, 2. This is just a test.

One two, One Two!
Here’s a few photos of random Asian food I’ve made and photographed over the last year. Beyond giving you a hint of what’s to come; I’m mostly posting these to check the multimedia plugin I’m using for this site.

Let me know how everything looks